This new project concerns awareness-raising in the fight against breast cancer.
As you know, the Pink Ribbon is today the global symbol of breast cancer awareness month, but our awareness actions should not be limited to one month a year.
It is with this kept in mind that I wanted to create this pattern so that all year long we are attentive.
With early care it is 99% chance of recovery at 5 years !!
Talk to your doctor, be followed and above all take care of yourself!
I chose this name while thinking of Alienor of Aquitaine for two reasons:
- because Aquitaine is the region where the Bergonié Institute is located, this hospital saved my mum’s and my cousine’s life.
- and especially because Alienor of Aquitaine did nothing by half, it was a woman with an exceptional destiny that marked the history of the Middle Ages, she was a rebellious, strong woman, the Insubmissive of Aquitaine. She lived until her 80s. She had ten children and two kings as husbands. An iron health and a sacred appetite: for politics, for art, for life!
For me, this emblematic figure represents formidably the strong and beautiful women who are fighting against this cancer!
You are all Aliénor, You all are warriors!
Reminder: Original pattern created by MignonCrochet. This pattern is only for personal use. You are not authorized to distribute, reproduce, publish (online or print), translate, alter or resell this pattern (in whole or in part), in any form (paper, internet) ….).
You are NOT authorized to sell the finished products, this pattern was made for Breast Cancer Awareness, not for a commercial purpose. However, if you wish to organize a fundraiser, explain your project to me by email in order to obtain special authorization: mignoncrochet@gmail.com
I will enjoy finding your creations on social networks, don’t hesitate to tag me and follow me: Facebook: @Mignoncrochet Instagram: @Mignoncrochet.magali #mignoncrochet Pinterest: MignonCrochet Feel free to contact me by email, I will be happy to answer you: mignoncrochet@gmail.com
Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner
Material and tools:
- Hook: 2.5 mm (doll), 3.5mm
- 10mm Safety eyes
- 6mm/ ¼ in Satin ribbon – 30cm/12in long
- 2 x 5mm/ 3/16 in yellow buttons
- Sewing/tapestry needle, scissors
- Stitch marker, Fiberfill (about 40g).
- Pink embroidery thread
- Yarns:
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK: 100% cotton – 50g/125m – DK
- Yarn A: Soft Fudge (410)
- Yarn B: Bubblegum Pink (451)
- Yarn C: Spearmint Green (426).
- Yarn D: Daffodil Yellow (422)
- Yarn E: Tea Rose (443)
- Or Catona, Scheepjes Brand: 100% mercerized cotton – 50g/125m – Fingering
- Yarn A: Noisette (503)
- Yarn B: Schoking Pink (114)
- Yarn C: Green Forest (412)
- Yarn D: Lemon (280)
- Yarn E: Colonial Rose (398)
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK: 100% cotton – 50g/125m – DK
Abbreviations (US terms):
- st: stitches
- ch: chain
- slst: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- dtr: double treble crochet
- inc: increase made of sc.
- dec: invisible decrease made of sc.
- sc3tog: decrease made of sc over 3 sts.
- hdc2tog: decrease made of hdc.
- BLO/FLO: back/front loops only
- sc/inc/dec around/across: you must make the sc/inc/dec in each st of the round (for around)/ the row (for across).
- (…) x 4: repeat instructions 4 times
- [ ….] : sts in squared brackets are made in the same st.
- (6): number of stitches on the round/row
- rows/rounds 6-10: repeat instructions from row/round 6 to 10 included
- RS/WS: right/wrong side
Glossary:
- Magic Ring (MR): https://youtu.be/E0aEFkiVEZs
- Slip stitches and joined rounds: https://youtu.be/AqwdVPKnn5c
- Chain, single crochet: https://youtu.be/dLyYcntaFoI
- Half double crochet, double crochet, treble, double treble crochet: https://youtu.be/n_rzNNcMhTk
- Increase, invisible decrease and decrease: https://youtu.be/dPQ6RyJ7bbw
Special stitches:
4dc-Bobble: yarn over and insert your hook in next st, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on your hook, (yarn over and insert your hook in same st, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on your hook) x 3, now yarn over and pull through 5 loops on your hook.
The doll is made using a 2.5mm crochet.
Arms:
Stuff lightly.
Using A, make a magic ring.
- Round 1: sc 4 into the ring. (4)
- Round 2: inc around. (8)
- Rounds 3-4: sc around. (8)
- Round 5: 4dc-Bobble, sc around. (8)
- Rounds 6-22: sc around. (8)
Fasten Off, weave in ends.
Legs:
Stuff as you go.
Using B, make a foundation ch of ch4.
- Round 1: Starting in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 2 ch, [sc 3] in the last ch, then rotate your work and continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in the next st, inc in the last st. (8)
- Round 2: inc 1, sc 1, inc 3, sc 1, inc 2. (14)
- Round 3: sc 1, inc 1, sc 1, (sc 1, inc 1) x 3, sc 1, (sc 1, inc 1) x 2. (20)
- Round 4: sc around. (20)
- Round 5: sc 6, dec 4, sc 6. (16)
- Round 6: dec 1, sc 4, dec 2, sc 4, dec 1. (12)
- Rounds 7-35: sc around. (12)
For Leg 1: this is the left leg, make 6 sc so that your last stitch is on the inner side of the leg. (less or more sc, depending on your tension) – Fasten off.
For leg 2: this is the right leg, make 8 sc so that your last stitch is on the inner side of the leg. (less or more sc, depending on your tension) – DO NOT fasten off, keep going with body instructions.
Body:
Stuff as you go.
Using A, make ch 3 and connect legs with sc 1 (counts as 1st st of next round) on the last st of the left leg, taking care to align both feet.
-
- Round 36: sc 12 on the 1st leg, sc 3 on the ch-3, sc 12 on the 2nd leg, sc 3 on the other side of the ch-3. (30)
- Rounds 37-44: sc around. (30 – 8 rounds)
- Round 45: sc 6, dec* 1, sc 14, dec* 1, sc 6. (28)
- Round 46: sc around. (28)
- Round 47: sc 6, dec* 1, sc 12, dec* 1, sc 6 (26)
- Rounds 48-51: sc around. (26 – 4 rounds)
- Round 52: sc 7, dec* 1, sc 12, dec* 1, sc 3 (24)
- Rounds 53-54: sc around. (24 – 2 rounds)
Now we add the arms. Be careful that both thumbs (4dc-Bobble), are facing the same way.
- Round 55: Sc in the next 7 sts, (sc through both st from arm and body at the same time) x 3 , sc in the next 9 sts on the body, (sc through both st from arm and body at the same time) x 3 times, sc in the next 2 sts on the body. (24)
- Round 56: Sc in the next 6 sts, dec 1 (1 st from body & 1 st from upper part of the arm), hdc in the next 3 sts from arm, dec 1 (1 st from arm & 1 st from body), sc in the next 7 sts, dec 1 (1 st from body & 1 st from upper part of the arm), hdc in the next 3 sts from arm, dec 1 (1 st from arm & 1 st from body), sc in the next st. (24)
- Round 57: sc around. (24)
- Round 58: sc 3, dec 1, sc 2, sc3tog* 1, sc 4, dec 1, sc 3, sc3tog* 1, sc 2. (18)
- Round 59: (sc 1, dec 1) x 6.. (12)
- Rounds 60: dec around. (6)
DO NOT Fasten Off, keep going with head instructions.
Head:
Start stuffing after round 78
- Round 61: inc around. (12)
- Round 62: (sc 1, inc 1) x 6. (18)
- Round 63: (sc 1, inc 1, sc 1) x 6. (24)
- Round 64: (sc 3, inc 1) x 6. (30)
- Round 65: (sc 2, inc 1, sc 2) x 6. (36)
- Round 66: (inc, sc 5) x 6. (42)
- Round 67: (sc 3, inc 1, sc 3) x 6. (48)
- Rounds 68-73: sc around. (48 – 6 rounds)
Between rounds 73/74, place a stitch marker 4 sts before the end of round 73. Count 6 sts to the right, place a second stitch marker. These are pins for eye locations.
- Round 74: (sc 3, dec 1, sc 3) x 6. (42)
- Round 75: (dec 1, sc 5) x 6. (36)
- Round 76: (sc 2, dec 1, sc 2) x 6. (30)
-
- Place safety eyes on previously marked sts, do not place washers for now.
- Remove the eyes and embroider eyebrows, eyelashes
- Place safety eyes, secure them if you’re satisfied,
- Embroider a nose in the middle of the eyes, aligned with the bottom of the eyes.
- Round 77: (sc 3, dec 1) x 6. (24)
- Round 78: (sc 1, dec 1, sc 1) x 6. (18)
- Round 79: (sc 1, dec 1) x 6. (12)
- Round 80: Dec around. (6)
Close Off.
Headband:
Round 1, 2 and 4 are made using C – Rounds 3, 5 and 6 are made using D
Using C and a 3.5mm hook, make a MR.
- Round 1: sc 12 into the ring. (12)
- Round 2: ch3 ( counts as dc), dc in same st, (ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc-inc in next sc) x 5, join with hdc on top of ch-3. (12 dc, 6 spaces) Change color to D.
- Round 3: ch 3 (count as dc), dc in space made by joining hdc, ch 2, sc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, { (dc 2, ch 3, dc 2) in next ch-2 space, ch 2, sc in next ch-2 space, ch 2} x 2, (dc 2, ch 1) in last space, join with hdc to top of ch-3. (3 sc, 12 dc, 6 ch-2 spaces, 2 ch-3 spaces, 1 space made by joining hdc) Change color to C.
- Round 4: ch 3 (count as dc), dc in space made by joining hdc, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2, { (dc 2, ch 3, dc 2) in next ch-3 space, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2} x 2, (dc 2, ch 1) in last space, join with hdc to top of ch-3. (24 dc, 3 ch-1 spaces, 6 ch-2 spaces, 2 ch-3 spaces,1 space made by joining hdc) Change color to D.
- Round 5: ch 3 (count as dc), dc in space made by joining hdc, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2, { (dc 2, ch 3, dc 2) in next ch-3 space, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc 2 in next ch-2 space, ch 2} x 2, (dc 2, ch 3) in last space, join with slst on top of ch-3. (3 hdc, 24 dc, 12 ch-2 spaces, 3 ch-3 spaces)
- Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next dc, {sc 2 in next ch-2 space, sc in next 2 dc, sc 2 in next ch-2 space, sc in next hdc, (sc 2 in next ch-2 space, sc in next 2 dc) x 2, (sc 2, ch 1, sc 2) in next ch-3 space, sc in next 2 dc} x 3, omitting last 2 sc, join with a slst to first sc. (63 sc, 3 ch-1 spaces)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Ties:
Using D and 3.5mm hook, make a foundation chain of ch21.
- Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, slst across, slst on ch-1space corner “A”, slst across the side to next ch-1 space “B”, then ch 21, turn, starting in 2nd ch from hook, slst 20.
Fasten off weave in ends.
Skirt:
- Turning chains, ch 1 or 2, don’t count as st, unless otherwise stated.
- Tulip: work [sc 1, (ch 10, sc 1) x 3] in next st.
- Catch loop: catch ch-10 loop of Tulip by inserting your hook under chain at tip of loop at the same time as under the next stitch.
- Note: Hold loops of Tulip down at front of work on RS.
Using C and 3.5mm hook, make a foundation chain of ch62.
- Row 1 (WS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, Tulip, (sc 9, Tulip) x5, sc 5, join with a slst on 1st sc. Change color to D. (55 sc, 6 Tulip)
- Row 2 (RS): ch 1, turn, sc 5, (skip 1 st, sc2tog, skip 1 st, sc 9) x 5, sc 5, join with a slst on 1st sc. (61 sc)
- Row 3 (WS): ch 1, turn, sc across, join with a slst on 1st sc. (61)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 2, (catch 1st loop of Tulip in next sc, sc 5, skip center loop of Tulip, catch 3rd loop of Tulip in next sc, sc 3) x 5, catch 1st loop of Tulip in next sc, sc 5, skip center loop of Tulip, catch 3rd loop of Tulip in next sc, sc 2, join with a slst on 1st sc. (61sc)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across, join with a slst on 1st sc.
Next row is worked using color D, but you’ll use color E to work 6 dc into 1 st and catch 3rd loop from Tulip (written: [dc 6 + catching 3rd loop] ). So I recommend you to carry yarn E across the row, then fasten off at the end of the row.
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc 5, ([dc 6 + catching 3rd loop], sc 9) x 5, [dc 6 + catching 3rd loop], sc 5, join with a slst on 1st sc. (55 sc, 6 [dc 6 + catching 3rd loop])
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc 5, (ch 1, skip 6 dc, sc 9) x 5, ch 1, skip 6 dc, sc 5, join with a slst on 1st sc. (55 sc, 6 ch)
- Row 8: ch 2, turn, hdc across, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (61)
- Row 9: ch 2, turn, (hdc 8, hdc2tog) x 6, hdc 1, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (55)
- Row 10: ch 2, turn, (hdc 3, hdc2tog) x 11, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (44)
- Row 11: ch 2, turn, hdc across, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (44)
- Row 12: ch 2, turn, (hdc 2, hdc2tog) x 11, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (33)
- Row 13: ch 2, turn, (hdc 1, hdc2tog) x 11, join with a slst on 1st hdc. (22) change color to C.
- Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc 20, dec 1, join with a slst on 1st sc. (21)
- Row 15: ch 3 (counts as hdc + ch1), skip 1 st, (hdc 1, ch 1, skip 1 st) x 10. Join on 2nd ch from ch-3. (11 hdc, 10 ch-1 spaces)
- Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across, join with a slst on 1st sc. (21)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Leotard:
Dtr and tr are made in front of the work, in the stitch that is 2 rows below.
Using E, make a foundation chain of ch28, join with a slst.
- Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), (dc 3, ch 1, skip 1) x 7, join with a slst on 1st dc. (21 dc, 7 ch-1)
- Row 2 (WS): ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn, skip 1 st, (dc 3, ch 1, skip 1) x 6, dc 2, join with a slst on 3rd ch from ch-4. (21 dc, 7 ch-1)
- Row 3: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn, skip 1 st, (dc 1, dtr 1, dc 1, ch 1 , skip 1 st) x 6, dc 1, dtr 1, join with a slst on 3rd ch from ch-4. (14 dc, 7 dtr, 7 ch-1)
- Row 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc 2, ch 1, skip 1 st, (dc 3, ch 1, skip 1 st) x 6, join with a slst on top of ch-3. (21 dc, 7 ch-1)
- Row 5: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dtr 1, dc 1, ch 1, skip 1 st, (dc 1, dtr 1, dc 1, ch 1 , skip 1 st) x 6, join with a slst on top of ch-3. (14 dc, 7 dtr, 7 ch-1)
- Row 6: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn, skip 1 st, (dc 3, ch 1, skip 1) x 6, dc 2, join with a slst on 3rd ch from ch-4. (21 dc, 7 ch-1)
- Row 7: ch 1 (doesn’t count as st), turn, sc in same st as ch 1, sc 2, (tr, sc 3) x 6, tr 1, join with a slst on 1st sc. (21 sc, 7 tr)
- Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc 9. Place a marker on the 6th st after the last sc made. (9)
- Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 7. (8)
- Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 6. (7)
- Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 5. (6)
- Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 4. (5)
- Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 5. (4)
Fasten Off, weave in ends.
Join E yarn, on RS and on the marked st, with sc and repeat Rows 8 to 13.
- Row 14: ch 1, turn, holding the 2 panels together (put 2 rows 13 together) and going through inner loops, slst across to join. (4)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Top front panel:
Using C,
- Row 1 (RS): flatten the leotard and with front facing you, count 5 sts from the right side and join with a standing sc on the 6th st and make sc 4. (5)
- Rows 2 (WS) – 4: ch 1, turn, sc 5. (5)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog. (3) – DO NO TURN
- Round 6: slst along rows ends, then slst on the reverse side of the foundation chain (from leotard part), slst along rows ends, slst across row 5.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Suspenders:
On the back of the leotard, place a marker on the loop (the loop is in D color) from the side of the slst that is in the middle.
First and last ch made will be the buttonholes.
Using C and 3.5mm hook, make ch 13, slst on the marked loop, ch 13.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Sew buttons on the front panel. Attach the suspenders to the buttons (chains are used as buttonholes)
Assembly:
- Using the pink embroidery thread, embroider 2 pink ribbons on the doll’s chest.
- Use the ribbon as a belt on the skirt.
- Add blush, face details if you want.
- Dress her.
Congratulations, you’re done!
Don’t forget to show me your own version! 😉
Reminder: Original pattern created by MignonCrochet. This pattern is only for personal use. You are not authorized to distribute, reproduce, publish (online or print), translate, alter or resell this pattern (in whole or in part), in any form (paper, internet) ….).
You are NOT authorized to sell the finished products, this pattern was made for Breast Cancer Awareness, not for a commercial purpose. However, if you wish to organize a fundraiser, explain your project to me by email in order to obtain special authorization: mignoncrochet@gmail.com
#AliénorMignonCrochet #Pinkribbon #octobrerose
Progress is constant. Every day, researchers get involved in the fight against breast cancer.
The fight against breast cancer also requires progress in cancer screening. These advances concern imaging and also genetic screening tests for breast cancer.
You can support here : L’Institut Bergonié
Take Care 💗