Lilac is a fabulous flower. Between April and June, the abundant flowering of the lilac, a delicate vaporous cloud, exhales its perfumes. Its fragrances are intense, fresh, flowery, and fruity, slightly musky. There are around thirty varieties, with colors ranging from blue to parma, passing through white and pink.
I wanted to find these colors on my table, and it’s done with this placemat.
The lilac has also inspired other artists such as the painter Edouard Manet, Lilacs in a vase (1882), Louis Aragon, The lilacs (1970), or even the singers Hugues Aufray from daffodils to the last lilacs (1968) and of course Serge Gainsbourg The lilac puncher (1958)
I hope I managed to explain what I did with this pattern. If you have any questions, please get in touch with me.
You will see three diagrams I drew and one I did on the computer; I did this according to my abilities/disabilities and not knowing how to predict the good days when my health leaves me alone, I chose to publish the pattern without delay.
Reminder: Original pattern created by Magali Poumeryol / MignonCrochet. This pattern is only for personal use. You are not authorized to distribute, reproduce, publish (online or print), translate, alter or resell this pattern (in whole or in part), in any form (paper, internet). You are authorized to sell the finished products, if they are made by you, in limited quantities, and you give credit to the designer “from an original pattern of Mignon Crochet, available on www.mignoncrochet.com”
I will enjoy finding your creations on social networks, tag me and follow me so I can see your makes:
- Facebook: @Mignoncrochet
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- Ravelry : MignonCrochet-Mag
- and: AtelierMignonCrochet on Etsy
- If you have any questions contact me, I will be happy to help you at mignoncrochet@gmail.com
Level: 
Supplies:
Hook: 3.00mm.
Yarn: Durable Coral, 125m/50g, one ball each:
- Yarn A: 231 Lilac.
- Yarn B: 279 Pearl,
- Yarn C: 326 Ivory 20g
Others:
- Sewing/tapestry needle
- Stitch marker (if you need)
- Scissors
Gauge:
After round 4, the granny measures 8x8cm (3.15×3.15 in).
Final size:
The placemat is 46x36cm /18.12×14.18 in. (after blocking)
Abbreviations: US terms
- ch chain
- dc double crochet
- hdc half double crochet
- MR magic ring
- slst slip stitch
- 1ch-sp chain space consisting of 1ch
- 2ch-sp chain space consisting of 2ch
Pattern NOTES:
- This placemat is made up of 12 granny squares assembled continuously. Which means there are no seams.
- Take time to gauge to make sure you get the exact size result.
- Sc used to join counts as 1ch-sp, hdc used to join counts as 2ch-sp.
- Join at the top of ch-3 means to join on the 3rd ch made at the start of the round
- Click on the charts to display them in a new tab.
Grannies:
- Make a total of 12 grannies
- Rnds 1-2: yarn A, Rnds 3-4: yarn B x 6
- Rnds 1-2: yarn B, Rnds 3-4: yarn A x 6
Using yarn A, make a MR.
Round 1: 3ch (counts as dc), 2dc in ring, *2ch, 3dc in ring; repeat from * two more times; join with hdc to top of ch-3.
– Total: 12dc, 4 2ch-sp
Round 2: 3ch (counts as dc), (2dc, 2ch, 3dc) in same ch-sp, *1ch, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-sp; repeat from * two more times; 1ch, join with slst to top of ch-3. Fasten off yarn A
– Total: 12dc, 4 2ch-sp, 4 1ch-sp
Round 3: Using yarn B, join with a slst on first 1ch-sp and 3ch (counts as dc – or you can also join with a standing dc), 2dc in same ch-sp, *1ch, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-sp**, 1ch, 3dc in next ch-sp; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join with sc to top of ch-3 (or st-dc).
– Total: 36dc, 4 2ch-sp, 8 1ch-sp
Round 4: 3ch (counts as dc), 2dc in same ch-sp, *1ch, 3dc in next 1ch-sp, 1ch, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, 1ch**, 3dc in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join with slst to top of ch-3
– Total: 48dc, 4 2ch-sp, 12 1ch-sp
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Assembly:
- Using the join-as-you-go (JAYG) method, we make the last round of the squares and join them simultaneously.
- First, we must place the squares on the work surface to assemble them in order. This schematic will help you.
The red arrows indicate the direction to follow while crocheting the last round.
Now that we’ve seen that, let’s do the last continuous round, using yarn C.
Referring to the following chart for details, start by working the last round around three sides of the first granny, ending with 3dc in the corner space, 2ch (counts as 1ch for granny #1 and 1ch for granny #2); 3dc in any corner space of granny #2. Now continue working final round along the top edge of granny #2, connecting to granny #1 with flat joins at each space (red arrows). Follow green arrows to complete the round.
I reduced the diagram to 4 squares to keep the chart large and readable for everyone. Of course, we apply the method to our 12 grannies (4×3).
The method I used to flat join grannies is easy-peasy.
- Step 1: Working on granny #2, drop the loop off the hook.
- Step 2: Insert the hook from the right side to the wrong side (from front to back) through a corner chain-2 space of granny #1.
- Step 3: Pick up the dropped loop with your hook and draw it through to the right side of granny #2.
- Step 4: Continue working on current granny #2: ch 1, 3dc in the same space.
Border:
- To make the border, we crochet three rounds on the same model as the grannies, i.e. 3dc in each 1ch-sp, 1ch to corner, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in the corner.
Referring to the following chart for details, crochet round 1 with yarn A, round 2 with yarn B and round 3 with yarn C.
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block to measurements.
You would make me tremendous joy if I could find your makes on the web by tagging me (see my user names at the top)
Thank you for being so supportive 🥰; your comments, likes, and shares of posts give me a lot of moral support.
I also thank @Durableyarn for the Durable Coral yarn support.
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